Disheveled.

After ten hours in a suit, you just stop caring. As much.

Overcoat time is coming.

Or here already, if you’re out and about San Francisco mornings.

The full Jack/Knife.
Barn coat, flannel shirt, and jeans.

The charcoal flannel suit. For those cold, foggy San Francisco winters.

Building Stuff

A while ago I did core work (fire alarm, electrical closets) for this nondescript, gutted building in the SOMA district of San Francisco. It was interesting to see the bare skeleton of this structure take form as lifelike body-systems of power were installed to engage the life-sustaining (mechanical air-circulation, more complex than I had theretofore imagined) and project-specific facilities.

Almost one year later, I returned for finish work (light fixtures, switches) to the very same structure. I was amazed to see how the work that was done previously set the stage for the next crew of actors to perform their prescribed lines of work.

Transforming a lifeless shell of concrete and glass into an energized, beating hub ready for occupancy is a humbling experience, but it underscores the workman’s mantra:

Leave it good for the next guy. Because someday, the next guy might be you.

Hopsack: the fabric of bus drivers. Hopsack: the fabric of bus drivers.

The rollneck. On Arnold. At Studio 54.

Wow. Wrinkles.

Featuring the muted green matte silk neat tie.

Paul Newman and the flannel shirt.

Q

maplelime asked:

Are there any brands of denim jeans that are less likely to wear out in the crotch after four months than others? Or is planned obsolescence something we have to begrudgingly accept with the majority of "affordable" clothing. Levis, GAP selvedge, Banana Republic... Doesn't seem to make a difference where I buy 'em. Realistically, do I need to expect to have to pay in the hundreds of dollars if I want something that will last?

A

This is a great question, and something fellow San Franciscan Jacob is giving attention to. Specifically: will buying specific jeans prevent bicyclist’s blowout?

The answer is no. And yes.

Craftsmen and farmers found their dungarees’ knees wearing out. Same with the toes of their boots. This comes, not from some nefarious “planned obsolescence”, but from the simple fact that they bend down, kneel, crawl, etc.

Still, the fact that these stress areas wear out fast & render the garment useless sucks. Happily, though, manufacturers of workwear have responded by reinforcing them, such as double knees on Taylor Stitch chore pants or TPU on Viberg boots.

Bicyclists experience something slightly different, but essentially the same: repeated wear, leading to crotch blowout. The solution? If you know of any places that will customize jeans (Jack/Knife Outfitters), then a little extra will go a long way to extend the life of your investment.